This article is part of our Beauty and Cosmetics feature: discover it here

The beauty industry results in a significant environmental footprint: it accounts for 2.2% of global industrial carbon emissions, consumes more than 125 billion litres of water each year, and still depends heavily on petrochemicals, with around 60% of brands making use of synthetic fragrances derived from petroleum, according to WorldMetrics. In this context, choosing a product that is safe for both people and the planet is no longer the concern of a niche minority, but a growing priority.

Renewable Matter sat down with Xanthe Galanis-Hancox, Communications Manager at COSMOS Certification, a standard that is rapidly gaining traction beyond Europe, to understand the relevance and importance of opting for certified products.

Developed by five leading European organisations in organic and natural cosmetics (Germany’s BDIH, the French COSMEBIO and ECOCERT, the Italian ICEA, and the UK’s Soil Association), COSMOS aims to bring consistency to a fragmented market. Its guidelines cover the entire value chain, from raw material sourcing and manufacturing processes to packaging and labelling, offering both a benchmark for producers and a point of reference for increasingly conscious consumers.

With the rise of beauty trends, increasing product turnover, and growing concerns about overproduction, how does the COSMOS certification help consumers navigate and make more responsible choices in the beauty market?

The COSMOS certification provides a stable, trusted point of reference. It helps consumers cut through often vague and misleading marketing claims by setting clear, independently verified criteria on ingredient origin, processing, and environmental impact. We prioritise renewable ingredients, limit petrochemical inputs, and promote environmentally responsible manufacturing. For consumers, it’s a way to choose products aligned with higher sustainability standards without needing to decode complex ingredient lists or green claims.

In recent years, have you observed a growing demand for a COSMOS certification? Which segments are driving this increase (mass market, premium, indie brands)?

Yes, demand has grown steadily. What’s notable is that the growth is no longer limited to niche or indie brands. While these early adopters helped establish the standard, we now see strong uptake across premium and, increasingly, in the mass market. There are now 31,160 certified finished products (COSMOS ORGANIC or COSMOS NATURAL), 23,264 certified raw materials (COSMOS CERTIFIED or COSMOS APPROVED), and COSMOS-certified products are present in 80 countries worldwide.

Launched in 2002 and made operational in 2010, why does it remain a relevant reference standard in the cosmetics industry today?

COSMOS evolved alongside the industry while maintaining a clear scientific foundation, and it continues to provide clarity in an area where regulatory frameworks are still limited. Its relevance today comes from three things: robust criteria, independent third-party certification, and continuous improvement. As new sustainability challenges emerge, the standard is regularly reviewed to ensure it reflects current best practice.

What impact does the certification have across the raw materials supply chain, particularly in agriculture and sustainable sourcing practices?

COSMOS supports organic farming practices that avoid synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, thus contributing to soil health and biodiversity. Beyond agriculture, the standard also sets requirements for processing methods and encourages the use of green chemistry principles. This pushes suppliers to innovate and adapt, helping to shift the market towards more sustainable inputs overall.

What are the main challenges today in terms of availability and scalability of certified ingredients?

Not all of the ingredients used in cosmetics currently have viable certified organic alternatives that meet performance expectations. In particular, this is true for certain functional ingredients. Addressing these challenges requires long-term investment, supplier partnerships, and continued innovation in green chemistry and sustainable agriculture.

How are the independence and scientific robustness of your criteria ensured, and how often is the standard updated?

COSMOS is governed by an independent, non-profit association made up of founding organisations with long-standing expertise in certification. The criteria are developed through a transparent process involving technical experts and stakeholder consultation. Specialist committees such as the technical and certifier committees advise the board and team. Scientific robustness is ensured by foundational requirements in internationally recognised principles, including organic agriculture standards and green chemistry. The standard is reviewed regularly, with updates introduced to reflect new scientific knowledge, market developments, and sustainability priorities. 

Why is the COSMOS certification important for companies that choose to adopt it?

We believe that COSMOS is the easiest way to protect brand reputation. For companies, a COSMOS certification offers credibility in a market where consumers are more and more sceptical of unverified claims. It provides a recognised framework to substantiate sustainability commitments and ensures consistency across product portfolios.

How do companies typically approach the certification process, and what are the most common barriers they encounter?

Brands or manufactures will work with one of our twelve COSMOS certification bodies to adapt formulations, validate raw materials, and ensure compliance in manufacturing. Ingredient availability, reformulation challenges, and the administrative complexity of traceability and documentation are among the most common hurdles. For some, there is also an internal learning curve in understanding certification requirements across different teams. However, once systems are in place, the process becomes much more manageable and can be scaled across product lines.

In which countries can we find the highest number of COSMOS-certified companies or products, and what factors explain this distribution?

Europe remains the strongest market, particularly countries like France, Germany, and Italy. This reflects both consumer awareness and the historical development of organic and natural certification in these regions. However, we are seeing growing engagement internationally, including in India, South Korea and the US. This expansion is driven by global brands, export markets, and rising consumer interest in sustainability.

What are your main priorities and challenges for the future development of the COSMOS standard?

One of our key priorities is ensuring the standard continues to evolve in line with emerging sustainability challenges, particularly around biodiversity, climate impact, and responsible sourcing. Another focus is improving accessibility and scalability so that more companies across different sizes and regions can adopt the standard without compromising its integrity. The challenge is to balance ambition with practicality: maintaining high, science-based criteria while supporting real-world implementation across a complex global supply chain.

Cover: Xanthe Galanis-Hancox