“Back in the days when we used to swim in the river we were afraid of alligators. Now it is difficult to find even a small geko." Marcos Rogério Beltrão dos Santos is a Brazilian environmental activist. He lives in the state of Bahia, in the east of Brazil. When he meets with Earthsight researchers he is wearing a straw hat and a blue T-shirt on which the words "without Cerrado, without water, without life" stand out. The Cerrado is the biome that dominates the lands where he lives, and the slogan refers to the ecological devastation they are experiencing. He is the one who tells the anecdote related to geki and alligators. The local agricultural industry is to blame for the disappearance of the fauna, he explains.

Marcos dos Santos' story is part of Fashion Crimes, a lenghty report produced by the British NGO Earthsight, anticipated by Renewable Matter and other international media. The NGO investigated Brazilian cotton crops, specifically in western Bahia, and what they uncovered might have an impact on the fashion world. According to the researchers, millions of cotton-based garments sold worldwide by brands such as H&M and Zara are made from a raw material linked to deforestation, land grabbing, human rights violations and violence.